
Sarong, Kaftan, Pareo, Kikoy: A Designer's Guide to a Confusing Market
When it comes to resort wear, the same simple beach cover-up might be called a sarong in one shop, a pareo in the next, and sometimes even a kaftan. This can make the fashion landscape feel like a confusing market, and that’s before you even hear about the kikoy.
While these terms are often used interchangeably, they each refer to a unique garment with its own rich history and cultural identity.
This guide is here to clear up that confusion. We will break down the specific cultural origins, the way each one is traditionally made, and the key features that define these four distinct garments. Our goal is to give designers, brand owners, and fashion lovers the knowledge to make authentic and informed choices.
The Sarong: A Versatile Woven Tube from Southeast Asia
The sarong is a garment deeply connected to the history and social fabric of Southeast Asia. To understand it, you have to look beyond its modern use and into its rich past.
Origins and Cultural Significance
The word "sarong" comes from the Malay word sarung, which simply means "to cover" or "to sheath". The garment itself is ancient, spreading through ancient sea trade routes that connected the islands of Southeast Asia with India, the Arabian Peninsula, and East Africa.
This is why you can find similar wraparound garments in many different cultures, such as the Lungi in Southern India or the Futa on the Arabian Peninsula.
Defining Construction: The Stitched Tube and the Kepala
A traditional sarong is most often a length of fabric that has been stitched together at the ends to form a tube. You wear it by stepping into the tube, pulling it up, and then folding and tucking the extra fabric to hold it in place. The other, less common form is a simple unstitched flat cloth, which is often found in Bali.
A key feature of many traditional sarongs is the kepala, which means "head". This is a distinct panel on the cloth that has a contrasting color or a more elaborate pattern than the rest of the fabric. When the sarong is worn, the kepala is placed at the front or back to serve as the garment's visual centerpiece.
Signature Crafts: Batik, Ikat, and Songket
The true artistry of the sarong is often found in the traditional methods used to decorate it. Traditionally made from natural fibers like cotton and silk, these garments are canvases for incredible craftsmanship.
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Batik: This is an ancient art of wax-resist dyeing, most famous in Java, Indonesia. Artists use wax to draw intricate patterns on the cloth before it's dyed, creating complex, multi-colored designs.
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Ikat: With this technique, the threads themselves are dyed before being woven into cloth. This complex process creates patterns with a characteristic "blurry" edge to their motifs.
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Songket: This is a luxurious brocade fabric where metallic threads, like gold or silver, are woven in to create glittering, opulent patterns for special occasions.
Because of this artistry, wearing a sarong with a specific pattern can signify a person's social status, their tribe, or the particular ceremony they are attending.
The Pareo: A Vibrant Printed Wrap from the Pacific Islands
While often confused with the sarong, the pareo has its own unique story and style. It’s the garment most people picture when they think of a tropical beach wrap, an icon of leisure with a distinct identity rooted in Polynesia.
From European Trade Cloth to Tahitian Icon
Interestingly, the pareo was first introduced to Tahiti as a simple printed cloth by European traders. But the Tahitians quickly made it their own, reshaping it to fit their vibrant culture.
When missionaries encouraged them to wear plain white, they instead embraced bright, colorful, floral prints that matched their island home, turning the pareo into a symbol of their unique identity.
Construction: The Unstitched Rectangular Sheet
The most important difference between a pareo and a sarong is its construction. A pareo is always a single, unstitched rectangular piece of fabric; it is never sewn into a tube.
It is also typically larger and wider than a traditional sarong. This generous amount of fabric is what makes the pareo so versatile, allowing it to be tied in countless ways, from a simple skirt to a full halter dress.
Signature Style: Bold Prints of Island Flora
The classic look of a pareo is unmistakable. Its signature style is defined by bold, vibrant, and large-scale prints of local flowers and plants from the Pacific Islands. The most iconic patterns feature hibiscus flowers, monstera leaves, and palm fronds.
The fabric is usually a lightweight cotton or rayon that is perfect for tropical weather, and the colorful designs are always printed onto the cloth, which is different from the woven or dyed patterns of many other traditional wraps.
The Kaftan: A Regal Robe with Imperial Roots
The kaftan is entirely different from a sarong or pareo. Its most important distinction is that it's a constructed piece of clothing, like a robe or a tunic, not just a piece of fabric you wrap around yourself. Its history is defined by imperial power and luxurious craftsmanship.
From Mesopotamian Courts to Ottoman Splendor
The kaftan has an ancient history, with its origins traced back to Mesopotamia. It became most famous as a key garment in the Ottoman Empire, where sultans wore magnificent and lavishly decorated kaftans made from the most precious fabrics.
In this context, the kaftan was a symbol of power and status. The specific colors, patterns, and ribbons on the garment all indicated the rank of the person wearing it.
Construction: A Tailored Tunic
Unlike the other wraps we've discussed, a kaftan is a tailored garment that is cut and sewn. The traditional shape is often described as a T-cut robe or tunic with long, full sleeves. It can be a pullover style or open down the front like a coat.
Kaftans are often long, reaching down to the ankles, which is why you'll frequently see the term long kaftans.
Signature Craft: Opulent Embroidery and Embellishment
The identity of the kaftan is tied to luxury. Traditional courtly kaftans were made from rich materials like silk, velvet, and brocade. The true artistry, however, comes from the elaborate surface decorations, especially the embroidery.
The Moroccan kaftan is a perfect example of this, often featuring intricate braided trim called Sefifa and lines of small, handmade decorative buttons called Aâkad.
The Kikoy: A Striped Woven Cloth from East Africa
The final garment in our guide is the kikoy, a textile with a proud and distinct identity from the Swahili coast of East Africa. Unlike the other wraps, its beauty comes not from a print or dye applied to the surface, but from the way the fabric itself is woven.
The Heritage of the Swahili Coast
The name "kikoy" (also spelled kikoi) comes directly from the Swahili language, where it means "loincloth," a nod to its traditional function. The garment originated centuries ago in the vibrant coastal cultures of East Africa, primarily in Kenya and Tanzania, through the exchange between Swahili communities and Arab traders.
It was traditionally worn by men as a simple and practical wrap, perfectly suited to the hot, humid climate.
Construction: Woven Patterns and Hand-Knotted Tassels
A kikoy is a rectangular piece of cloth, but it has key features that make it unmistakable. The most important difference is that a kikoy's patterns, especially its famous colorful stripes, are woven directly into the fabric. The design is part of the cloth's structure, not printed or dyed on top.
Another signature feature is its finish. The threads at the two shorter ends of the cloth are left long and then twisted and tied by hand to create distinctive hand-knotted tassels.
Signature Material: The Integrity of Woven Cotton
Traditionally, kikoys are made from 100% cotton, a material loved for its softness, absorbency, and durability. High-quality versions are often made from superior combed cotton, which results in a smoother and stronger fabric.
This focus on the quality of the material and the integrity of the weave is what gives the kikoy its honest, handcrafted feel.
The Designer's Quick-Reference Guide: Sarong vs. Pareo vs. Kaftan vs. Kikoy
Now that we’ve explored each garment's unique story, it helps to see their key differences side-by-side. The table below is a simple, at-a-glance summary to clear up the confusion.
Use this quick-reference guide to help you make authentic choices for your next design or collection.
. |
Sarong |
Pareo |
Kaftan |
Kikoy |
Geographic Origin |
Malay Archipelago (SE Asia) |
Tahiti (Polynesia) |
Mesopotamia, Persia, Ottoman Empire |
East African Coast (Swahili Culture) |
Traditional Form |
Rectangular cloth, often sewn into a tube |
Large, unstitched rectangular cloth |
Tailored T-shaped robe or tunic with sleeves |
Rectangular cloth with hand-knotted tassels |
Defining Feature |
Kepala (contrasting central panel) |
Large-scale, vibrant floral prints |
Constructed garment, often with front opening |
|
Key Fabrics |
Cotton, Silk |
Lightweight Cotton, Rayon |
Silk, Velvet, Brocade, Wool |
Combed/Mercerised Cotton |
Signature Craft |
Batik (wax-resist dye), Ikat (yarn-dye) |
Screen printing |
Intricate embroidery and embellishment |
Loom weaving (patterns are woven, not printed) |
Conclusion
As we've seen, the sarong, pareo, kaftan, and kikoy each have a unique story to tell. They are not just interchangeable wraps but distinct garments defined by their construction, craft, and culture. The sarong is a woven tube from Southeast Asia, the pareo is a printed wrap from the Pacific Islands, the kaftan is a tailored robe with imperial roots, and the kikoy is a tasseled cloth from East Africa.
Understanding these differences is the first step to creating a truly authentic and interesting collection. The next step is finding a partner who can help you execute your vision with quality and care. At Ohscarf, we specialize in sourcing and producing high-quality custom resort wear and can guide you in making the right choices for your brand.
Contact our design team today to discuss your project and bring your authentic vision to life.
Frequently Asked Questions(FAQs)
What is the main difference between a sarong and a pareo?
The main difference is their construction: a traditional sarong is often a sewn tube of fabric, while a pareo is always a single, unstitched rectangular sheet. Pareos are also typically larger and feature bold, printed floral designs, whereas sarongs often have dyed or woven patterns like batik.
Is a kaftan a dress or a cover-up?
A kaftan is a structured garment, like a long robe or tunic, that can be worn as a dress on its own or as an overdress. Unlike a simple wrap that you tie, it is a tailored piece of clothing with sleeves and a defined shape, making it much more than just a cover-up.
What makes a kikoy different from other wraps?
A kikoy is different because its characteristic striped patterns are woven directly into the cotton fabric, not printed on top. It is also defined by its signature hand-knotted tassels or fringes on the ends, a key feature of its East African craftsmanship.
Are sarongs only worn by women? No, sarongs are a unisex garment worn by both men and women throughout much of Southeast Asia and other parts of the world. While styles may vary, wearing a sarong is common for everyone, and it is frequently worn by men for daily comfort or for attending prayers at a mosque.
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